Japan, Day 1

The nice thing about traveling from Korea to Japan is the distance. The flight was only an hour and a half, not even enough time for me to properly pass out against the window in my patented airplane-sleeping position. I flew there using Air Peach, a new-ish budget airline which I have no complaints about. It was nothing special, but there were no problems on the way there or the way back. The only thing that might be a problem for the more masculine travelers out there are the airline’s signature colors of fuchsia and orchid, and the fact that you have to fly in a pink plane.

We landed at Osaka-Kansai Terminal 2 right on time at 10:30. I grew up with a mother who was trying to have it all, which meant that I was often dropped off or picked up constantly shuttling me around and dropping me off or picking me up 15 minutes or so behind schedule. As an adult, I have a perverse appreciation for punctuality and no one does it better than the Japanese. A friend of mine lives in Tokyo and speaks Japanese, and he told me that if the subway or bus is running even one minute behind the schedule posted in the station, you can expect the conductor or driver to be apologizing profusely to all the passengers as they board.

Kyoto is about 90 minutes from Osaka so it had been decided that the first night we would stay near the airport. This being my second trip into Osaka-Kansai, I knew that the subway and buses closed pretty early, and that taxis would be ridiculously expensive, so it seemed that this plan would be more of a money- and time-saver for us. Unfortunately, by the time we made it through immigration public transport was closed and we were forced to take a taxi anyways.

Taxis in Japan are the epitome of class, as well they should be for what you end up paying for them. The cars themselves are always black with the drivers’ and front seats covered with white lace doilies. Even if it’s raining outside, the cars are pristine and spotless. The drivers must use their time between fares to clean off road dirt and straighten seat cushions.  The hotel we stayed at was called the Hotel Garden Palace and it was only 7 or 8 km away, but by the time we got there the fare had skyrocketed up to almost $50. Compared to Korean taxi prices, where the same distance at the same time of night probably would have run me about $10 max, it was pretty painful.

For an airport hotel, the Garden Palace was comfortable, clean, and functional. The elevators were tiny (another common Japanese thing) and they charged for breakfast, but I slept through that anyways so it didn’t really matter to me. The neighborhood it’s in is a little strange, a cross between an industrial town and a rice paddy, but it was incredibly quiet which is always a welcome change of pace for me. The lobby was also pretty cute, in a kitschy kind of way. I was also pleasantly surprised when I walked into the room and saw that the shower had a bathtub, a practice that I forgot was pretty commonplace in Japan. My favorite part about the hotel by far was the fact that they put traditional Japanese robes in the rooms. It took all of my willpower not to revert to my kleptomania ways and slip one of them into my backpack.  That and the pillows were the perfect amount of hard-squishy. I slept like a rock.

Japan

This weekend is a long holiday here in Korea. As I’ve said before, the two major holidays on the ROK are Thanksgiving (Chuseok 추석) and Lunar New Year (Seollal 설날), and once more Lunar New Year is upon us. In 2011, I left Korea twice (Thailand, America); 2012 I left 3 times (Philippines, Japan, and Indonesia), but in 2013 I only left once (Japan again!)! So I am hurting for a vacation that lets me put my awesome new passport to use. Also, if any of my friends back home are reading this, I just want you to know that I’m going to Hong Kong, Vietnam, Cambodia, Japan, and Malaysia this year. Still happy with your decision to start a career fresh out of college? Get. At. Me.

There is nothing better to rescue one from the doldrums of winter like planning a vacation. Especially if it’s a vacation to somewhere warmer than where you are. Even if that warmer place is really only slightly warmer than home. I’m going to be in Kyoto and Nara for 5 days over my vacation, and it’s going to be historic and modern and wonderful. After taking that photography workshop a few weeks ago, I’m ready to walk all over the place snapping pictures and seeing sights. I’m most looking forward to everything, but I have been thinking about the things I want to see and photograph that I didn’t get to last time or did a shitty job of capturing. Definitely want to take some good pictures of the deer at Nara. Last time I didn’t get any shots that were really great.

While planning out my trip I learned about about Jizo statues, so I’m going on the hunt to search for those. According to the information I’ve found so far, Jizo is the guardian of children, travelers, and pregg-os so the statues are all over the place. It’s said in Japan that children who die before their parents are not allowed to cross into the afterlife because of all the suffering and grief they’ve caused and are instead doomed to an eternity of piling stones at the edge of the Sanzu River. Each day the children pile stones, hoping to accumulate enough as good deeds to pay the ferry across the river into the afterlife, but each night demons come and destroy the piles so the children have to start all over the next day. Dead babies are Japan’s Sisyphus.

Sometimes people pile stones next to statues of Jizo to help cut down on the workload for all those children and of course Jizo himself is there to help. As the story goes, he finds these wandering souls along the river and hides them inside his robes from the demons who patrol the river, then sneaks them across to greet eternity. Atheistically, I take no solace from the concept of Jizo, but I am strangely drawn to talismans that represent a connection to the commonality of humanity. The peace I feel about Jizo and the Buddha statues I keep in my room and the ticket stub I saved from a long-forgotten event and the expired NYC MetroCard in my wallet and a crumpled and a torn picture of my brother when he was a baby remind me of times past and promises of things to come. Rituals like the piling of stones or riding the subway or going to a baseball game remind us that we are an inexorable part of the web of humanity and even though we suffer, there are others who have suffered the same and survived.

So I will fly on Wednesday and as with every trip I have ever taken, I will go to Japan with the expectation that through the lens of a new experience I will figure out some new truth about myself or contemplate a new angle of an old problem or think about something that I’ve never even considered before. Also, I want to get some of those tabi toe socks that I can wear with sandals 🙂